Day 6 - Kauai - Get Your Boots On

We're up early 'cause we've got our biggest/longest hike planned for today.  We're doing the first portion of the Kalalau Trail and the side trip to Hanakapi'ai Falls.  It's 8 miles total, and we think it's going to take us about 5 hours.  It does not. 

So, the Kalalau Trail is 11 miles one way, and it goes from Ke'e Beach to Kalalau Beach with some super spectacular views of the Na Pali coast.  I hope to someday come back to Kauai and hike the whole thing, but for now, we'll be satisfied with the first portion.

Gentle Reader, you must do this hike if you go to Kauai.  I'm not gonna lie - it's not easy.  I had mud up to my ankles.  Actually, I had mud pretty much everywhere.  It's a very muddy hike in the winter (rainy) season.  It hadn't even really been raining much, and it was still crazy muddy.  Keep in mind too that the first 1/2 mile will have millons of people on it as well.  See, you can get your first Na Pali view by just doing the first 1/2 mile.  And that's what lots of folks choose to do.  Including Japanese tourists in high heels.  Um, WTF?  I had hiking boots on, and I had issues in some places.  After you move past that first viewing point, you won't see nearly as many people.  And on the side trip to the Falls, we really hardly saw anyone. 

First things first:  start this hike early.  I would say the earlier, the better.  And if you're staying on the West, South, or East shores, it's going to take you quite awhile to get to the trailhead.  Bring a lot of water.  Definitely bring lunch if you're doing the Falls trip too.  And plan on getting dirty.  The first 2 miles to Hanakapi'ai Beach isn't difficult.  If you're a beginning hiker, there might be a few dicey parts.  It's mostly downhill, and the mud can be slippery.  DO NOT get near the water at the Beach.  Apparently lots of people have died here.  There is a stream crossing at the end as well.  There are rocks to jump on, and it's not difficult.  But don't be an a**hole and sit on one of the main rocks that folks are using to cross the stream.  This is rude and douchebag-like. 

Honestly, you guys, I cannot even describe how beautiful the Na Pali coast really is so I'm not even going to try.  Here are some of Tim's photos instead.

After you get to the beach, hang out for a bit before beginning your trip on to the Falls.  You'll want to rest up.  This is a fairly tough 2 miles.  The beginning is quite easy though, so it doesn't seem like it's going to be challenging.  I was just crusing along, thinking to myself, "Well, Emily, you are quite the seasoned hiker these days, aren't you?  Nothing you can't handle."  And then we came to the river crossing. 

Ah, the river crossing.

There are rocks to jump on, and it's easier in some places than in others.  We did not choose an easy path.  Tim was sort of helping me, guiding me to the best rocks to jump on, and then it happened.  I put my boot on a rock, could not see the moss that covered it, and slipped.  I fell straight into the river, cut both my knees, and skinned my palms.  More than that, I injured my pride something awful.  And I cried a little.  Don't tell anyone. 

Now my boots and socks are soaked, and I am crabby.  I mean, c'mon!  Hiking with squishy boots sucks!  To his credit, Tim did not laugh.  He is a wise man.  After the river crossing incident (or RCI as it will henceforth be known), my spirts were a bit low.  And this hike gets hard.  There is some climbing, some crawling over rocks, more river crossings.  It seems a lot longer than 2 miles. 

But you're finally rewarded with the Hanakapi'ai Falls, and it is worth it.  Sit on the rocks, eat your lunch, enjoy their beauty.  Swim in the pool if you're brave - this water is hella cold.  And actually, it's kind of chilly near the Falls because there is no sun coming in.  Rest up - 'cause you gotta go back the way you came.  And what goes down must go up. 

The return was pretty tough for me.  I was tired and a little crabby, and the elevation gain on the last 2 miles is challenging.  But again, it's worth it, and if I can do it so can you. 

As I said in the beginning, we thought it would take us 5 hours to complete this hike.  It took us over 6, and Tim and I haul ass when we hike.  I would definitely plan on 6-8 hours for this hike - depending on how fast you hike and how much time you spend at the beach and the waterfall.  But do it.  Seriously, do it.

But don't plan on doing much else that day.  Dirty and tired, we stopped at Kalypso in Hanalei again for beers.  And then we headed home.  TV and pizza and putting our feet up sounded pretty damn good.  And it was.  Oh, and the best pizza on the island is hands-down Brick Oven Pizza.  They've got 2 locations, one in Wailua and one in Lihue.  Delicious whole wheat crust with garlic butter and yummy toppings.  Delicious.  Some Yelp reviews say it's expensive, but if you're from Seattle, you know that $20 for a pizza isn't outrageous.  And when you've hiked 8 miles, you're up for a little splurge on cheesy pizza goodness.

Man, what a great day.  Helluva day.